Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Monfortino, 1993 LWT3 but more transparency—this is a

but more transparency—this is a wine for classicists

a little earth

Bruno Giacosa's flagship single-vineyard Barolo from his own Falletto estate in Serralunga d'Alba

Thomas Colladot runs Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot from Flagey-Échezeaux

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Monfortino, 1993 LWT3 but more transparency—this is aMonfortino is the summit of traditional Italian wine, Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva, made only in the best years from the estate's finest Nebbiolo and aged for roughly six to eight years in large oak casks before release. For many it's the single most perfect expression of the grape. This 1993 is a deep back vintage from a private collection, now well over three decades old and fully mature. At this point Monfortino is all tertiary grandeur, the